Gastronomic Delights
Five small beach communities sit along a flat, two lane (sometimes one-lane) road that parallels the picturesque shore of Caribe Sur. This 13 kilometer stretch of jungle from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a lively Caribbean town, to Manzanillo, a sleepy fishing village, is home to over 150 restaurants, bars, cafes, bakeries, sodas, and roadside stands. Caribe Sur is a multicultural community consisting of the country's largest concentration of Afro-Caribbean and Indigenous groups (mainly the Bribri, KéköLdi, and Cabécar). There are dozens of nations represented in this expat community, including people from the United States, Canada, Argentina, Brazil, Nicaragua, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Spain, the Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland, France, Italy, and China. So, it is no surprise that you can find anything from Italian wood fired pizza to Caribbean patis to perfectly cooked Argentinian meats.
To add to the already glorious array of cuisine, there are many organic farms in the area that specialize in cacao and chocolate, coffee, and tropical fruits. A great place to start is ChoCo, located in the center of Puerto Viejo. Here, you can pair wine, beer, or rum with chocolates from the area’s best cacao farms. Recently, they have featured chocolates from Talamanca Organica, CHOCORART, Wolaba, Morena Clara, Bread and Chocolate, Rancho Tranquilo, and Caribeans.
Oh! And did I mention that we are only steps away from the ocean? Fresh fish is abundant here, and there is no shortage of restaurants that prepare an ocean’s feast daily. Be sure to try rondón (“run down,” which refers to the liquified nature of the sauce), while you are here. Cassava, taro, yam, plantains and green bananas are simmered with local fish in a base of coconut milk. Delicious! Visit Monli Bar y Restaurante for large servings of the daily catch. Check out their Facebook page to see them catch and prepare their fish.
You can eat your way through the Caribe Sur area, AND you can be healthy while doing so! There are many restaurants that specialize in vegan and vegetarian dishes. Everything is fresh - and because of the tropical climate, you will crave fruits and veggies. Batidos (smoothies in water or milk) and fresh juices are a great way to cool off on a warm day. Don’t hesitate to try pipa fria (cold coconut water) at one of the roadside stands. Very refreshing! We love Gypsea Cafe and TOSTAS in Playa Chiquita for beautiful, healthy drinks and meals.
We always dedicate one evening of our visit to Puerto Viejo to a fine meal at KOKI Beach. The service is outstanding. The decor is trendy, yet relaxed. And the food is always fantastic! I love the fresh daily catch simmered in coconut and curry sauce. Matt loves the chimichurri steak. Our son considers their cheeseburger his favorite! Whether you are dining as family, or on a romantic date, KOKI Beach is sure to please! Be sure to save room for the “caja” dessert. It is one of their signatures, and normally features banana, caramel, or chocolate.
Our family LOVES pizza! WE REALLY LOVE PIZZA. Whether we are home in the US, traveling abroad, or here in Caribe Sur, we usually have pizza at least once a week. And we are so lucky at UP! House Costa Rica to have two incredible wood fired pizza restaurants within a couple minutes walk. La Leyenda Pizzeria presents inventive and perfectly cooked pizzas in a casual rustic setting. The restaurant is lined with bales of hay, and its patrons are regulars. They normally offer an amuse bouche, to get your taste buds ready for the incredible meal. Pizzeria Pulcinella offers traditional Italian wood fired pizzas in a cozy garden patio setting. We love the Salsiccia (spicy sausage), and order it almost every time we are there. We hear they are currently serving a 1/2 meter pizza, in which each third of the pizza has different toppings. We are so excited to have that on our next trip down to Playa Chiquita! Both of these restaurants offer pizza-to-go as well!
Here is the dilemma: there is no possible way to visit every dining establishment, so I hope this list will provide you some ideas during your stay. And whatever you don’t get to this time, means you will just have to come back again, and again!
PLAYA CHIQUITA DINING
Pura Gula Restaurante
Fresh and tasty slow-food style fusion featuring meat, fish and vegetarian dishes.
+506 8641 9499
HOURS: Wednesday - Monday 5:00-10:00
Dine In / Accepts Reservations / Take Away
Punto y Pasta
Delightful pasta, risottos, pizzas, and pastries.
+506 2750 3087 / WhatsApp +506 7008 8200
HOURS: Monday - Friday 12:00-9:00, Saturday - Sunday 12:00-7:00
Dine In / Take Away / Delivery
Pizzeria Pulcinella
Pizza traditionally baked in a wood fired brick oven, with high quality ingredients.
+506 2756 8274
HOURS: Tuesday - Sunday 5:00-8:00
Dine In / Take Away / Delivery
GypSea Lounge and Cafe
Flavorful breakfast and lunch dishes, made with fresh, local ingredients. Great vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Yummy beverages!
+506 2750 2016
HOURS: Tuesday - Sunday 8:00-3:00
Dine In / Take Away
La Leyenda Pizzeria
Delicious wood fired pizzas in a rustic setting. Great drinks and appetizers. This restaurant hosts a weekly farmer’s market, La Feria Legendaria de Playa Chiquita.
WhatsApp +506 8393 0659
HOURS: Tuesday - Sunday 3:00-9:00
Dine In / Take Away
Que Quilombo
Generous portion of grilled meats, cooked in the Argentinian style.
+506 8713 4814
HOURS: Monday - Saturday 5:00-9:30
Dine In
TOSTAS
Colorful vegan / vegetarian breakfast and lunch dishes made from organic ingredients featuring beautiful local fruits.
+506 2750 3007
HOURS: Wednesday - Monday 9:00-4:00
Dine In / Take Away
Pita Bonita
Israeli cafe serving middle eastern cuisine, such as falafels, shawarma, hummus, and Turkish coffee.
+506 2756 8173 / WhatsApp +506 8365-1834
HOURS: Monday - Saturday 12:00-9:00
Dine In / Fresh Pita Bread and Hummus To Go!
Chocorart
Organic cocoa farm and production of chocolates offering chocolate tours, desserts, and chocolate bars.
Chocolate Tour Reservations +506 88667493 / +506 83452341
HOURS: Sunday - Friday 8:00-5:00, Saturday 8:00-4:30
OTHER FAVORITE PLACES TO DINE IN CARIBE SUR
Koki Beach
(Puerto Viejo) Top-notch dinner and service in a super cool environment. A must!
La Casita de Monli Bar Restaurante
(Puerto Viejo) Fresh fish! Family style portions!
Bread and Chocolate
(Puerto Viejo) Amazing breakfasts featuring fresh bread and chocolate!
De Gustibus
(Puerto Viejo) Great for morning pastries, coffee, and fresh bread!
Hot Rocks
(Puerto Viejo) Live music, casual atmosphere, with a beach view.
Amimodo
(Puerto Viejo) Italian food with a view!
El Rincón Porteño
(Cocles) Argentinian dishes and delicious handmade pastas.
Caribeans
(Cocles) Chocolate tours, shop, and yummy food and drinks.
La NENA
(Cocles) Traditional Caribbean dishes. Great ceviche!
The Spicy Coconut
(Cocles) Fusion of flavors, great drinks and a great view!
La Pecora Nera Ristorante
(Cocles) Authentic Italian cuisine.
Tasty Waves Cantina
(Cocles) Super chill place to get burgers, sandwiches, and watch a game!
NOA Bar Restaurant Beach Club
(Cocles) Drinks with a great view on the beach!
El Sol de Caribe
(Cocles) A local favorite featuring Caribbean food.
Arrecife Punta Uva
(Punta Uva) Casual food on the beach. Love the rondon!
El Refugio Grill
(Punta Uva) Grilled fish and meats in a relaxed setting.
Mr. Maxie’s
(Manzanillo) HUGE portions of fish and meat grilled to order.